Cause A Frockus

Muses from vintage fashion shows

Sep 9, 2015 | by Becky Oeltjenbruns

I have been poring over my latest copy of InStyle this week. While I can always revisit a page and find something new to enjoy, I’ve been circling around the interview with Tom Ford like it’s a flea market booth with a bakelite sale! There’s something dramatic and purely Hollywood glam about his work – something so quintessentially vintage about his approach. For a modern designer, his aesthetic vision inspires me, so I jump at any opportunity to peek behind the veil and get a hint of what guides his creative process. The interview is a fun read, but my favorite section by far is his break down of what inspired his Fall runway show. His influences range from the bold jewelry designs of Lisa Eisner to Tippi Hedren’s classic look and Ali MacGraw’s bohemian styling of the 70s. This mixture of forces makes for a beautiful vision and it got me thinking – who are the muses from vintage fashion shows?

Brief history of the fashion show

Firstly, we’ll kick off with a brief history of the fashion show – something I knew nothing about previously. I always assumed fashion shows just magically emerged from the darkness and we’ve never known a time without them Well, in a not-so-stunning turn of events, my theory is completely wrong. The history of this modern celebration is little known, but a few brave souls have committed pen to paper and turned the clock back to discover the exact moment of fashion show creation. Caroline Evans, professor of fashion history and theory at Central Saint Martins, is one such soul and her book The Mechanical Smile aims to shed a little light on these mysterious beginnings.

The fashion show itself is a little over a century old, dating back to late 1800s Paris (we can thank an Englishman for getting this ball rolling, read on to find out more). Fashion shows from this time had definite etiquette protocols. Designers and organizers of the time were combating two big issues: the relatively taboo reputation of modeling and the importance of guarding corporate secrets. First step in achieving secrecy and discretion – invites. These were not public affairs and were not advertised in a brash manner as the threat of secret-stealing was very real. Couture houses took whatever measures necessary to keep these “fashion pirates” at bay. And don’t even think about rolling up with a sketchbook in your reticule. Quick drawings were the easiest way to share info with unsavory characters eager to make a fortune off trendy knock-offs. The age of the consumer was upon us and a fashion-hungry public was blinded by a desire for having the latest thing.

When it came to maintaining society’s virginal standards, common procedures were employed. Everything from the model’s walk to the buyer’s eye movement was strictly controlled. (Of course it did help that the clothing around the turn of the century was more restrictive, creating a structured gait naturally). Walking with hands in your pockets was too middle class so models rigidly paced in a slow manner. It was all about the display of the clothes – the merchandise. The model as the focal point was not a welcome concept. Keep in mind the first supermodels didn’t really start to grab the spotlight until after the turn of the century (with Evelyn Nesbit leading the charge). Buyers were instructed to have constructive, but not lasting, gazes in the general vicinity of the models.

These early events went on for days or even weeks as models (originally known as mannequins) displayed the latest styles in front of a multitude of interested parties. These audience members would patiently wait for each wardrobe change, so you wouldn’t have had the fast-paced adrenaline rush of today. These were quiet and patient affairs, but that serenity wouldn’t last for long…

Paris may have kick-started the trend of the fashion show, but America was hot on their heels. By the turn of the century, department stores were becoming big business on this side of the globe and high-society fashion shows became a very effective way to increase clientele. Unlike their French counterparts, these shows were an open celebration and put the affluent lady directly in the driver’s (or should we say, buyer’s) seat. Once the Jazz Age arrived in all its loud glory, the fashion show mirrored this social environment and became even more over-the-top. We can trace New York Fashion Week’s origins to this moment in time. The lunch-time department store fete went on to become an industry in its own right – creating a buzz that’s reverberates well beyond New York’s East Coast borders.

Muses from vintage fashion shows

So what influenced some of the iconic fashion shows from yesteryear? Let’s investigate a few ground-breaking moments & please add your thoughts or additions in the comments.

1848 | Charles Frederick Worth becomes the father of couture & founder of the fashion show

Marie Vernet, a shop girl, displays in real time how a shawl should be worn. This live demonstration rocked the fashion world. Some credit it as jump starting the fashion show as well as Worth’s career. His first collection was directly inspired by Marie herself, his afternoons spent at the National Gallery, and his early work for a silk trader. Think sumptuous, think flowing – in a word, think couture.

1920s | Paul Poiret pushes the edge

Paul Poiret is someone I would like to travel back in time and meet. His lavish salon parties were legend in Paris and in the 1920s he outdid himself with the unveiling of the harem pant. His muses were exotic locales, thin and nimble silhouettes, and free body movement. When you think about it, shocking even for the Jazz Age, no?

February 12, 1947 | Christian Dior’s New Look debuts

This show is considered one of the most memorable and influential moments in fashion history. It inspired a world to move beyond the gloom and despair of war. Dior’s influence was the Belle Époque woman as she conveyed the essence of feminine beauty and grace.

1973 | America crashes the Paris scene

When you think of Versailles it probably conjures up scenes of elegance and opulence. But in 1973 an entirely different tone was set. American ingenuity took center stage as up-and-coming designers (who we now recognize as powerhouse icons) displayed their work. Exotic models, bold structured pieces, and the glossy flow of Halston’s gowns stole the night.

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For our readers – what vintage fashion shows or looks have influenced you and why?

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