Cause A Frockus

Miriam Haskell

Aug 12, 2015 | by Becky Oeltjenbruns

If you are new to the costume jewelry world, then Miriam Haskell is a great spot to start as her pieces are beloved by collectors and enthusiasts alike. Haskell and her partner Frank Hess worked their magic during the vintage glory days of costume jewelry – the 1920s through 1960s. Each decade of their work ushered in new trends and beautiful styles that look just as nice against a modern backdrop as they did when they were brand new. Let’s get to know a bit more about this force in the jewelry world.

Miriam’s tale is the stuff of legend – born to immigrants in a small Midwestern town, she studied hard at school (Chicago University), honing her craft during those years. To clarify, Miriam’s craft wasn’t designing per se, but she had an eye for proportions, materials, and most importantly creative talent. In the mid 1920s, with $500 in her purse, she left the comfort of home and went all the way to New York City. Two years after stepping foot in the big apple she opened up her first jewelry boutique. Could you imagine the bravery and determination needed to pull off this kind of feat? I imagine the air in NYC was alive with possibility. This is the era of the flapper, the liberated woman, the Harlem Renaissance – all of this creative energy buzzing around one focal point. It must have been infectious! I have so much respect for entrepreneurs, but there’s something extra special about a gal in the early 20th century carving out her own path in life.

The great thing about this particular story is it’s not just about carving a path – Miriam made a multi-lane highway! Her studio’s hand-crafted, high quality pieces struck a chord with the New York fashion scene (her necklaces are especially valuable to today’s collector). There was something special about her use of bold floral motifs, delicate filigree, and intricate bead work. This unique combination fueled an aesthetic that went on to define the early days of costume jewelry. Within a year of her boutique’s debut, she opened a second location and welcomed a creative director, Frank Hess. For a decade Miriam’s crew of designers and artisans worked at these locations, but by the 1930s they relocated to a posh Fifth Avenue spot. During this time their offerings expanded, with their parures becoming one of the most popular items. In fact, this popularity allowed Miriam to open up small boutiques within luxury department stores like Saks Fifth Avenue. The gal from Tell City, Indiana was suddenly sharing the same counter space as the illustrious Coco Chanel. Pretty cool, no?

Keep in mind that the 1930s was also the age of Hollywood glamour. Her pieces photographed beautifully and could be seen on all the starlets of early film. Adding to this desire for glitz, Miriam and Frank would consistently travel abroad in search of new materials and inspiration. During the second world war, many of their designs incorporated natural elements and plastic. Everything was re-imagined as they contributed to the war effort. Sadly, the emotional toll of the war and personal health issues forced her out of the company by the 1950s. But Miriam’s legacy lives on in every smile that her jewelry inspires.

If you decide to start collecting Haskell jewelry, it’s important to know that the markings for her pieces vary. Items were rarely signed before the 1940s. Pieces after WWII bear a horsehoe-shaped logo that spells her full name. In later years, the horseshoe gave way to an oval. More often than not, you’ll find yourself examining an unsigned piece. So how do you know if it’s authentic? This kind of thing is never an exact science. The most important concepts to remember: trust your gut, look at details, and use your senses. Here are some helpful tips to get you headed in the right direction as you embark on these adventures.

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