What is reverse crystal jewelry?
Aug 22, 2014 | by Becky Oeltjenbruns
Reverse Crystal Jewelry, from Tiffany’s circa 1880s.
We love collecting vintage jewelry and that passion has led us to costume jewelry, bakelite, and lover’s eye jewelry (to name a few). Our subject matter today (also known as reversed intaglio crystal jewelry) is another thrilling collecting category but you may be asking yourself: what is reverse crystal jewelry? Allow us to tell you more about these stunning beauties…
Everything you need to know about reverse crystal jewelry
This meticulous art form was established in the mid 1800s in Europe, becoming very popular with the London crowd at this time. The jewelry trend found its way to America during the late 1880s. By this time the themes were expressed on all manner of jewelry and accessories: buttons, tie pins, cuff links, lockets, charms, earrings, and brooches. Most motifs were designed with a sporting theme in mind: foxes, horses, birds, etc. However a more feminine approach was also commonplace, with monograms and flowers for the distinguished lady. This technique remained popular until the late 1920s, when cheaper materials were being pioneered and aesthetics became streamlined to follow suit.
How reverse crystal jewelry is made
These beautiful pieces start with a humble piece of rock crystal. Through a series of polishing techniques, the crystal is smoothed out and shaped into a cabochon form. (An example of the cabochon cut is shown below.) The artist then carefully carves the desired image on the flat, back side of the stone. Once the carving is done, he or she delicately applies oil paint to it and the full picture comes to life.
A cabochon moonstone
A backing material is then attached to create the one-of-a-kind three dimensional look. Most often that material is mother of pearl, but earlier examples may be metallic foil. The completed piece is then set into its final place, whether that be in a locket or as a charm in a bracelet, for example.
How to estimate the value of reverse crystal jewelry
When it comes to reverse crystal jewelry, it’s all about quality. Look for the the quality of the carving; ask yourself how crisp the details are. To fully assess the piece, you need to look at it under a magnifier. This particular kind of jewelry is very prone to scratches and often a magnified perspective is the only way to see this potential damage.
Cause A Frockus would like to thank their tremendous resources: Ehow, PBS, Lang Antiques, Dpaglia, and the wonderful people who post their imagery without restriction.
For our readers: Do you collect reverse crystal jewelry? If so, what’s your favorite motif?