How to date vintage clothing
Jul 28, 2014 | by Becky Oeltjenbruns
Grace Coolidge, Official Portrait – love that red dress
As we have shown in our vintage fashion timeline, retro attire offers a great wealth of style opportunities. While your collection grows, you may often find yourself puzzled by an item of clothing. Since trends tend to repeat themselves, it can be a tricky endeavor to identify lineage. Let us help with some tips on how to date vintage clothing. Below we’ll outline the major three ways you can learn more about your latest purchase. Keep in mind you’ll want to take this guide with a grain of salt; fabrics can be mended, zippers can be replaced, and seams can be taken in. As we’ve said before, your best judgment tool is your gut. Use this guide and engage your senses as you closely examine your finds.
How to date vintage clothing by silhouette and motifs
1910s | Long hemlines, empire waistlines, and high collars reflected the conservative cultural tones of the time. Women had very restrictive rules regarding fashion and there wasn’t much variety in styles and shapes.
1925 fashion, just check out her fab style
1920s | In the early part of the decade, hemlines were still long but clothes started to take on an exotic flair with the 1922 discovery of King Tut’s tomb. Soon heavily stylized motifs were popular. By the mid to late years in the decade, women were embracing new-found freedoms. The silhouette was very straight: waistless dresses or dropped waists, fabrics that accommodated women’s athleticism, and cloche hats. The flapper girl exposed her arms, back, and legs. Unstructured silks, jersey, cotton and wool supported these new adventures (like the Charleston dance).
1930s | While the hemlines went above the knee, by the time the stock market crashed the skirts became longer and remained so throughout the decade. Clothing was cool, confident, and curve-hugging. Fabrics like crepes and satins were bias cut to follow a woman’s natural lines. Patterns on fabrics were often small and detailed. Ladies’ suits were just as trendy as dresses. And toward the end of the decade nylon was invented, opening the door to more fashion advancements.
1940s | The war forced economy in all things, including fashion. Overall, less fabric was used during this time. You will see a lot of handmade items and most looks were plain and tailored. It was all about making do and mending, so you’ll find lots of creative expression as women struggled to carve an identity during these tough times.
1970s girl, laughing and looking stunning
Late 1940s and 1950s | Dior’s New Look revolutionized the industry, bringing sculpted femininity back into the frame. Accessories were incredibly popular and everything was very matchy matchy. You’ll find entire outfits in the same colors or fabrics: hats, gloves, shoes, and bags. Small jackets and cardigan sweaters covered up a dress’ emphasis on bare shoulders. This was the era of the sophisticated and luxurious lady.
1960s | As it often does, the pendulum of taste swung the other way in the following decade. Fashion in the 60s became daring and girl-like. Clothes needed to pop, designers were influenced by mod art movements, and bright colors/patterns were used. This was the age of space influences and the stunning Jackie O. Her sleeveless sheathes and pill box hats set the stage for a modern, conservative look.
1960s mini dress
1970s | Environmental movements and global awareness impacted vintage fashion in this era. Minimalist designers like Halston were experts at draping. Like in the 1930s, pant suits were in vogue but they flared in bell bottom style. Natural color tones and exotic patterns defined this decade.
1980s | Much like the 1920s, the 1980s saw a resurgence in feminine power – this time in the board room. With women taking a more prominent role in the career world, clothes became more structured to support their strong presence. But things weren’t one dimensional; bold glamour was all the rage.
How to date vintage clothing with zippers
1910s | Zippers weren’t invented yet, so you’ll find fasteners such as buttons and snaps.
1920s | Zippers were more commonly used by the end of this decade and were predominantly metal and sometimes found in the side seams. For this decade and the next, zippers were often paired with additional fasteners.
1930s and 1940s | Metal was still the material of choice, but by the later 1930s plastic zippers with larger teeth were being used too. These were more fragile, but used due to war time rationing. Zippers were also found in different spots in a garment like the sleeves, side seams, or neck lines. Occasionally zippers would be concealed and by the 1940s they were found in the back of garments.
Jane Seymour showing off great 1980s style
1950s | During this era zippers were typically concealed and were mostly metal in material. You will find them in the back of garments.
1960s-1980s | If you find a plastic zipper without the larger teeth, you are possibly holding a garment from the late 1960s and beyond.
How to date vintage clothing with seams and labels
There are lots of standards when it comes to labels and seams. Care labels were introduced in the 1970s, but finding union or guild labels mean that you are probably dealing with a wartime or mid-century outfit. Serged seams came into play in the late 1960s and while pinking shears are most commonly used in the 1950s, you may find some 1940s pieces with the same details. The Goodwill provides a great guide to the different labels and construction techniques.
Cause A Frockus would like to thank their tremendous resources: V is for Vintage, Vintage Visage, Stylish Petite, Vintage Fashion Guild, The Blue Kimono, 40 Aprons, “Antiques Roadshow 20th Century Collectibles”, and the people who post their images without restriction.
For our readers: How do you date your vintage clothing finds? Tell us your tried and true tips in the comments below.