Dolly Tree
May 26, 2014 | by Becky Oeltjenbruns
Maureen O’Sullivan in “Hold That Kiss”, dress by Dolly Tree
As you know, we love retro films. In addition to amazing storytelling and acting, the costumes and settings are extraordinary. Dolly Tree is a name you may not be familiar with, but she played a big role in the key looks of the 1920s and 30s. Her influence stretched beyond the theater, entering popular fashion as well. Join us as we learn more about this incredibly talented lady.
Dolly Tree, costume designer
Born in Bristol, England in 1899, Tree enjoyed life as a creative child. In 1912 her family relocated to London and she started her own acting career on both stage and screen, playing small roles in some of England’s early silent films. But her artistic skills soon evolved and she began creating illustrations for cartoons and posters. Tree’s work was imaginative and executives within the industry took notice of her diverse capabilities. In no time she applied these masterful sketching skills to fashion design, developing her talents as a seamstress. Given her natural abilities, Tree’s scope reached past London and moved on to the ever-inspiring Paris.
David Copperfield, 1935
While in Paris, Tree learned how to design stunning and simple dresses. Yet despite this, she never lost her taste for flair. Excited to find new work, Tree departed for New York on the Leviathan in 1926. She took out a full page ad in Variety to announce her arrival and soon found work creating pieces for stage shows. Her cabaret showgirl looks were legendary: exotic, imaginative, and even artistic in their composition. But she was just as comfortable with a simple bias-cut sheath as an extravagant, detailed gown. On the heels of the 1929 stock market crash Tree moved to Hollywood, eager to start a new chapter in her career.
Mae West in her amazing iconic look
The California years were some of her most productive and prolific. While working for Fox Film and MGM, Tree dressed the era’s biggest stars: Myrna Loy, Jean Harlow, Judy Garland, and Maureen O’Sullivan to name a few. Her bold use of color, unique details, and simple lines were powerfully translated in film and due to this versatility Tree was highly sought after. She is perhaps most well known for her work on the Thin Man series, creating Mae West’s infamous 1890s look, and pioneering the strapless gown on film. However, she struggled to assert herself in a male-dominated profession. Even after her death in 1962, most of her work continues to go un-credited or is improperly attributed to another designer. Please check out the resource links listed below to get even more information about her creative genius.
Cause A Frockus would like to thank their tremendous resources: the Dolly Tree website, Fashion Historian, Edditt Publishing, IMDB, and the people who post their images without restriction.
For our readers: What’s your favorite retro movie look? Do you notice costume design in modern film as much as you do in vintage? Tell us in the comments below!