Charles James
May 14, 2014 | by Becky Oeltjenbruns
Four leaf clover gown, image from the Metropolitan Museum of Art
If the recent Met Gala red carpet proved anything, 2014 is a special year indeed. The impact and splendor of vintage fashion is alive and well. Modern designers, models, and stars paid tribute to Charles James this year so we decided to delve into his work and history. We hope this article inspires you to learn more about this fashion star – and if you can – visit the Metropolitan Museum’s exhibit, Charles James: Beyond Fashion. It will be running through August 10th and will be sure to increase your appreciation for all things vintage!
Who was Charles James?
Born in England in 1906, James started life as a restless student with a desire to create. During the course of his studies, James struggled to find his voice in a society that rarely understood anything labeled as “different.” In time he found his place designing and producing extraordinary hats. He opened his first millinery studio in 1926 and this experience set the foundation for an appreciation of sculpture. Despite his lack of formal training, his hat making efforts gave him the opportunity to explore different proportions to a near mathematical precision.
In time his natural inclination to expand his pursuits led him to dressmaking. Surrounded by rich materials like silk, satin, taffeta, or velvet, James would constantly experiment with complex construction techniques. His process reflected his milliner background as he would use his models as the foundation for these highly sculptural (and often engineered) creations. Just because his gowns may involve a complicated framework, he never lost sight of the woman. Even if a dress weighed nearly twenty pounds, the wearer could still move as effortlessly as if she was in a simple sheath. James ability to create drama while preserving flexibility set him apart. His presence in 1940s New York was overwhelming as rich clients responded favorably to these revolutionary gowns.
Butterfly Ball Gown, Image from the Metropolitan Museum of Art
Remarkably James saw dressmaking just as much a matter of art as of science. Rarely before had a designer been so competent in both realms of the creative process. In fact, James is known for his innovative stitching and for creating beautiful silhouettes out of as little as one panel of fabric. This talent was recognized with the Coty Award (given to James in both 1950 and 1954) as well as the 1953 Neiman Marcus Fashion Award. Indeed, these accolades came at the zenith of James’ career. During this time, he was fascinated with the power of mass production, but due to his perfectionist nature only created about 1000 designs over the course of his working life. Some of the more notable creations include these iconic gown looks: the four-leaf clover, butterfly, tree, swan, and diamond. James is also known for pioneering many innovations: wrap over trousers, spiral cut garments, figure eight skirts, and stunning body conscious dresses.
By the time of his death in 1978, James’ influence had come and gone. Yet in the years that followed he is remembered as America’s first haute couture designer. James showed us that beauty and boldness could be incorporated gracefully into one gown. This vision is what we celebrate today and during a wondrous summer at the Met. But we’d wager that people should acknowledge and revere this kind of empowering perspective every day!
Cause A Frockus would like to thank their tremendous resources: The Met, The New Yorker, Vogue, and “Icons of Fashion: the 20th century” published by Prestel.
For our readers: Tell us, what do you think of Charles James’ work – do you appreciate his sculptural technique or do you prefer something more subdued. Please tell us your thoughts below!