The history of handbags
Jan 6, 2014 | by Becky Oeltjenbruns
Image from the Walters Art Museum
An outfit isn’t complete without the perfect bag. A colorful clutch makes your favorite little black dress ready for a night out on the town, a brilliant briefcase bolsters your confidence before an important meeting, and a over the shoulder number prepares you for a busy day. As we add to our collection of vintage bags, we wondered – just what is the back story of this wardrobe staple? Join us on a brief tour as we learn more about the history of handbags.
Why were handbags invented?
As you might imagine, the invention of the purse goes hand in hand with the onset of currency. As money became an everyday necessity, people needed a way to carry it to and fro and a bag was the preferred way. In the 14th and 15th centuries, purses were not only seen as functional but also an expression of status. Exquisite betrothal purses were a sign of luxury and also allowed women to showcase their embroidery skills.
Image from Wilhelm Storm
The following two centuries continued the trend of small purses with drawstrings or latches for closures. In the late 1700s the precursor to the wallet came about, known as a pocket case. Most cases or purses were made of fine and delicate material such as silk; they were often beaded or accented with pearls. What we consider a “modern” handbag can be attributed to the late 1800s, coinciding with another cultural event: the industrial revolution (specifically the advent of more efficient transportation and manufacturing processes).
Netted purses became increasingly popular in the late 18th and early 19th centuries, continuing the tradition of delicate purses. They were composed of silk, linen, cotton, or wool. Patterns and techniques were even shared from household to household. Women carried them around their wrists, mainly for evening events or around the home only. But with time, women found themselves venturing outside the home more often and sturdier options were needed. Outdoor activities and increased travel inspired the leather handbag, introduced in the 1800s. This first rendition was envelope-like and had a simple handle.
What is a reticule?
This term refers to an early rendition of the handbag that was worn by wrapping the long handle around your wrist. First seen in France in the late 1700s, they complemented the fashion trend of longer silhouettes and empire waist lines. This new fashion made pockets impossible so a purse asserted itself as necessary. This connection also marks the start of the relationship between handbags and clothes.
Image from the LA County Museum of Art
In the early 1800s their shape transformed, including flat sides that would showcase hand-made decoration. They were both soft and hard shelled, often very bright and detailed to contrast the simple and light-colored dresses. By the mid-1800s fashion shifted back toward romanticism and reticules had shorter handles to accompany fuller dresses.
When did purses really become popular?
The industrial revolution mechanized many aspects of everyday life. Publications and manufacturing processes worked hand in hand to bring fashion trends to the masses. Prior to this time, purses were very individualized, showcasing their owner’s sewing and decorative talents. This isn’t to say that once purses became mass-produced they lost all sense of splendor. Much like in early times, purses remained a status symbol and extraordinary bead-work or craftsmanship was popular.
Purse muff, modeled by Lady Churchill
Mobility became the strongest influence in accessory design. With travel came a need for keeping your items safe, so heavier construction and materials were used. Luggage design also proved to be directly influential – fasteners and techniques found in trunks and cases were also used in handbags. With these varied social outings, purses also became event-specific. Going to the opera, attending dinners, or going for drives all required unique accessories. Purse muffs soon found their place during promenades, some had a small purse attached in addition to an interior pocket. Luxury good manufacturers clamored at the opportunity to provide stunning pieces for the increasingly affluent society. Naturally, bags became more beautiful to house such precious items. As the connection between bags and dresses grew stronger, purses cemented their place as fashion essentials.
Purses during the early 20th century
After WWI, women experienced a brief liberation – free-flowing clothes, professional opportunities, and social mobility. Handbags during this time were meant to stand out in color and texture. Framed handbags remained popular and plastic was often used for this exact need. What we know as the modern day clutch first came about in the mid-1920s, called a “pochette.” This decade also found handbags influenced by Art Deco geometry, Jazz themes (beaded, flowing dresses), and exotic patterns (Africa, Egypt, or the Far East). Leather and suede were commonly used in purses, however pochettes could easily be made with the new wonder plastics (such as bakelite!). This eased mass-production which helped feed a society keen on consuming more and more fashion.
Image by Russavia
The next few decades saw increased production from luxury firms such as Van Cleef and Arpels. Cartier made stunning enameled and jeweled pieces fit for the growing upper class. Hollywood added to this craze, promoting an allure of glamour and mystery that women desired. Advancements in travel and exploration complemented this sense of glamour: cruise liners and airplanes ushered in streamlined designs (handbags were large, framed, and completed with shorter handles.)
By the end of the 1930s handbags became more sensible with double handles and were soft-shelled; the shoulder bag by Elsa Schiaperelli first appeared. In a mere ten years, larger forces came into the frame. Fashion mirrored the defensive cultural state as WWII began. Dresses were fit, square, and sensible – accessories soon became the only way for women to express their individuality. There was even a revival of needlework as women worked to jazz up their existing purses.
Purses after WWII
As post-war women became more concerned with personal appearance, color coordinated outfits were essential. Bags followed suit and larger, more secure (fully zippered) purses were made to match dresses. Rayne specifically made matching shoes and bags for their excited clientelle. This quest for matching ensembles came to the attention of the day’s fashion designers: Sciaperelli, Chanel (with the iconic 2.55 quilted bag), and Phillip Model to name a few. Christian Dior’s New Look in 1947 was a breath of fresh air, bringing back femininity and small clutches.
Image by Liu Wen Cheng
The 1950s focused on order and harmony within the home and beyond. The desire to always have the proper handbag to complement the correct outfit was a common concern for women. Purses came in three major categories: the traditional framed bag, the clutch (which got longer as the skirts got shorter), and the bucket bag. The trend toward romantic, feminine tones was expressed in pastel colors.
Over the next ten years prim and proper behavior was replaced with beatniks and liberal ideas. Artistic movements such as Pop Art and technological developments like space travel found a place in accessory design. Fashion was less constricted, things were ready to wear and thought of as easily replaceable. The shoulder bag was the preferred handbag shape and fit quite nicely with the newly created miniskirt.
Even though this decade saw many upheavals in fashion etiquette, the 1970s pushed the envelope even further. Layering, mixing and matching – all inspired patchwork leather purses, bright colors, and large bags. Designers of the time include Lesley Slight, Nigel Lofthouse, Mulberry, and Judith Leiber. Our final vintage decade, the 1980s, focused on confidence and organization. Donna Karan’s tote bags were meant to follow professional women seamlessly from the board room to the bistro. An obsession with health and fitness ushered in sports bags which influenced unisex bags. Yet with all this interest in streamlined, strong bags – fun had not lost its footing. Moschino reminded us that whimsy should be an integral part of any wardrobe. After all, that’s what handbags are all about – function married with beauty!
Cause A Frockus would like to thank our tremendous resources: Wikipedia, Bags by Claire Wilcox, and the people who post their images to Wikipedia without restriction.
For our readers: Do you collect vintage handbags? Tell us about your favorite find!
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